FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
 re-emergent
/ Post-emergent
Q: What is pre-emergent?
A: It is a water-based or granular substance that when broadcast on your
lawn or granite stops seeds from germinating. Hence the word pre, meaning- before
emerging. Pre-emergents can usually be applied right over existing plants with
no harm. We use the water based pre-emergent for better control.
Q: Will pre-emergent leave a stain?
A: Temporarily. The color is called an indicator and allows the applicator
and client to know what has been sprayed and what hasn’t. The color usually
lasts from ten to fourteen days. Unfortunately the color is built into the material
at the factory and we don’t get a choice in the matter.
Q: After I had a pre-emergent application to my landscaped granite I still
had weeds come up. Didn’t it work?
A: Often, weed seeds have already germinated at the time a pre-emergent
application is completed. They just aren’t large enough yet for the applicator
to see them and hit them with a post-emergent. Again, this is why we have a warranty.
Remember, if the weeds come back, so will we!
Q: What is post-emergent?
A: Post-emergents (after the plant has emerged) is used to kill existing
plants. It is a systemic material and is absorbed into the leaves, stems and eventually
the roots of the plant to kill it. For lawns, there are selective post-emergents
that will only affect certain broadleaf weeds, leaving the grass unharmed.
Q: Will post-emergent leave a stain?
A: Not unless a dye is added. We usually do this to show the weed has been
sprayed. Again, the stain goes away in a short time.
Q: Will pre or post-emergent applications harm my pets?
A: The manufacturers clearly state that the application is safe to humans
and pets once it is dry. We recommend that pets be kept off the treated area for
at least four hours. We are continually amazed that most people ask about the
pets but rarely about their children!
Q: Will you spray pre-emergents on the sand under the swing set, in the
sand box or the dirt in the horse corral?
A: No, no and only at the animal owners request!
Q: When should I do a pre-emergent application?
A: If you haven’t had one done in the last nine months, the answer
is now! It is a myth that the best time is in the spring. We are a year round
business and can attest that weeds grow every month and rain falls every month.
Just because you may not have weeds doesn’t mean you don’t have seeds
just waiting for the next drop of moisture to germinate.
Q: What is the difference between a 6, 9 and 12 month pre-emergent warranty,
and why would I want one over the other?
A: The manufacturers clearly state that the pre-emergent material lasts
only 6 to 8 months. In our climate we can usually expect 9 months of good weed
control. Some clients never want to see a weed. If this is the case an application
every 6 months will give the best opportunity to be weed free. Most people without
heavy weed problems choose the 9-month warranty because of the economics, however,
there is a higher risk of having some weeds. Since the material doesn’t last
12 months we don’t offer this option. We want our clients to be happy and
a 12-month warranty isn’t going to achieve this. We know from years of experience
that if you treat only once a year you will be experiencing at least 3 months
of that year with no pre-emergent barrier. Please Note: Our warranties apply to
annual weeds only. Annual weeds grow from seeds. Perennials like Bermuda grass
and nut grass have root systems and will grow back. For information regarding
the control of perennial weeds look further down.
Q: Do the pre-emergents or post-emergents you use sterilize my ground?
A: No. It takes a different, stronger, material to do this and we won’t
use this on residential or Home Owner Associations property. Even on commercial
properties, much care must be taken when applying a ground sterilent.
Q: It rained shortly after the pre-emergent application. Is it still good?
A: Yes. In fact it’s not only good it’s great! To be most effective,
pre-emergents should be watered into the soil (under the landscaped rock) within
thirty days. Even though it might not seem it, we experience rainfall in Phoenix
every month.
Q: So if I do a pre-emergent application I’ll never see another weed
– right?
A: Like life itself, this is an imperfect science. We can treat two identical
properties side by side and one will be a weed problem and the other will be pristine.
The imperfection of the science of weed control is why we offer a warranty.
Q: Why don’t you spray in the wind?
A: Do I really need to explain this? Obviously, we are very concerned to
get the pre-emergent and post-emergents on only the area we intend. You’ll
like us much better if we do.
Q: I’m chemically sensitive, how will a pre-emergent application affect
me?
A: We suggest you take the day off. Treat yourself to a day at the resort
or your best friends house. We’ve never had a complaint from anyone chemically
sensitive that was away from the treated area for 24 hours.
Q: Will you sell me some of your weed juice for my own use?
A: No. We aren’t a retail company. Check out the weed and bug mart,
maybe they will.
Q: I have thick tall weeds on my property, should I have them cleaned up
before the pre-emergent application?
A: Yes, even if you take a weed eater to them. The pre-emergent
has to get into the soil to be effective. It’s not doing that if
it lands on the knee-high weeds. If you don’t want to do it yourself,
any quality landscaper can help you. Contact
us for a landscaper referral (note, we do not refer landscapers based
on price, only quality).
Q: I’m laying new landscape rock. Do I use pre-emergents before or
after I lay the rock?
A: The load of rock will come with seeds in it, therefore we advise putting
the pre-emergent down after the rock is spread. If there were weeds or grass in
the area where the rock is going then you should have a post-emergent application
before the rock is put down. If it is Bermuda, scroll down to our section on special
problems.
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 pecial
Problems: Bermuda grass, nut grass, perennial weeds, etc. etc.
Q: How to kill Bermuda grass or other perennial weeds?
A: Repeated applications of post-emergent! Perennials have a root system
and while the surface plants can look dead, the roots stay alive. Repeated applications,
especially when the leaf is nice and green, will eventually get the material to
the root and kill it.
Do it your self: For small infestations, you can gain control of the
problem yourself. Go to your local store and purchase a gallon spray container.
Buy the highest concentrate of Round-Up you can find (40 percent or higher)
and mix it yourself with water. Add a drop of dish soap for every gallon
mixed and spray them pesky devils yourselves. The dish soap helps the
material stick to the leaf. Remember, it will take repeated applications
to finally kill it off. If this doesn’t work, sell the house. (Just
joking).
Q: Lawn problems such as bur clover, nut grass, water grass etc;
A: Many beautiful lawns are marred by the onset of broadleaf weeds
such as bur clover, dandelions, spurge, water grass and because it has
a root system the toughest problem of all, nut grass. Selective post-emergents
and special pre-emergents applied at exact rates by our experts can help.
We at Arizona Weed King, Inc. have specially designed programs to deal
with these problems. Call and ask us about how our specific lawn programs
can help your lawn look its best.
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 live
tree applications
Q: Do I have to spray my olive trees every year?
A: Yes. There is a window of time in the spring when olive trees can be
effectively treated to inhibit fruit production. This window of opportunity can
be divided into two sections. Beginning at the end of January / the beginning
of February we can spray a tree with a material called Maintain. This is usually
applied to industrial / commercial sites because it has a harsher effect on the
tree. You will actually see the tree leaf curl slightly. We recommend that this
material not be sprayed on the same tree year after year.
The second section of time occurs when the tree is budding and the buds have
reached a specific point of maturity. This usually occurs toward the end of March
the beginning of April. At this time we can use a combination of Fruit Stop /
Embark, which has a kinder, gentler effect on the tree. We recommend this for
our homeowner customers. Unfortunately, once the bud becomes a flower and the
flower falls off the tree, (with a tiny olive taking its place) the window of
opportunity is over and you’ll have to wait until next year. Remember, olive
control is also an inexact science and a realistic expectation of any one tree
is to achieve 95% effectiveness.
Contact us early to get your olive trees on the schedule.
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 ertilization
Q: When is the best time to fertilize my trees?
A: The optimum time for trees is January through June.
Q: Why should I fertilize my lawn?
A: To stay green and lush your lawn needs a balanced fertilizer along with
nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium to keep it healthy and strong. Most of the
time these elements are present but over time the hungry lawn eats them up and
turf can be a very hungry plant during its major growing season. Usually one glance
can tell you if your lawn is starving. The leaves aren’t as green and healthy
looking or you may see brown tinges or spots. The proper balance of all the nutrients
is the key to a healthy beautiful lawn. Some experts say that fertilization should
occur every month. Others state four times a year; early spring, early summer,
late summer and late fall, should do the trick. If you’ve never fertilized
your lawn, try it, you’ll be amazed at how lush, green and healthy it can
look.
Arizona Weed King, Inc. services all cities in the Valley including but
not exclusive to; Phoenix, Scottsdale, Glendale, Peoria, Sun City, Surprise, Tolleson,
Cave Creek, Carefree, Buckeye, Tempe, Mesa, Apache Junction, Gilbert, Ahwatukee,
Chandler, Fountain Hills, New River and Anthem.
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